Watches often do more than tell time. They can help a consumer define
and project an image: sometimes for status and power, sometimes to
convey style and cultivation.
High-end brands have
such extraordinary demand these days; the wait list can be as long as
two years to get a Jaeger-LeCoultre. Socha reports that Patek Philippe
sold 28,000 watches and Jaeger-LeCoultre sold 50,000 in the Prestige
category, while Rolex in the Luxury category sold 900,000 (Socha, 2007,
2008, p 1).
It is no longer rare for Prestige watches to
sell in the high six figures. Business is booming and all Prestige
manufacturers sell every watch they produce. Even the lower-tier Rolex
line is benefiting from this trend. Murphy (2008, p 1) notes that sales
were even better into 2008, and quotes that "A diamond watch doesn't sit
in our shop more than a week."
The Prestige makers have established "heirloom quality."
Keller
(2008, p 137) notes their mantra, "You never actually own a Patek
Philippe. You merely take care of it for the next generation." So it is
with Jaeger-LeCoultre. Here is their watch Queen Elizabeth received at
her coronation. Not so with Rolex. Timex? A different kettle of fish
altogether.
Rolex
Rolex
watches have a divine heaviness. You would just not expect them to
release a plastic Rolex. They reinforce this image of eminence with
advertising and celebrity endorsements. Green (2004, p1) reports that
Arnold Palmer was interviewed on playing his 50th Masters and, of
course, endorsed Rolex. What’s more, Rolex is the 7th largest magazine
advertiser in the world. Keller (p 137) notes that "Rolex watches retain
their value better than almost any other type of good." However, they
have not been able to establish the "heirloom quality" of the top
brands.
Keller (pp 133-7) finds that Rolex is among the
most "recognized luxury brands in the world." However, Rolex is
positioned between the Prestige producers and the next-tier producers
and so they have established the lower-priced Tudor line as a
"fighter-brand" to keep Tag-Hauer, Movado and Citizen from encroaching
into their niche.
I present for your consideration the
following ad in the November 2008 issue of Vogue (see Illustration One).
First attribute: it’s a two page ad for 30 words of text. This makes a
statement; Rolex is an eminent player, worthy of your attention. The
alluring model with classic features is the 77-year-old Carmen
Dell'Orefice (see Rumbold, 2008 for a two page biography), according to
Kathy (2008, p 1). Her ageless beauty underscores the timeless value of
the Rolex she is wearing. The redundant headline reads, “Class is
Forever”, but we have already gotten the message. Rolex wants to break
into the heirloom niche so it can obtain high figures like the Prestige
brands.
The body copy has important words – royal,
diamond adorned, Stingray leather, and Black Sapphire. If there was
reservation before, it is now dispelled: this is a watch like no other,
made for royalty from only the rarest materials. It uniquely enhances
your image. This professional ad will certainly appeal to the following
VALS Segments: Innovators, Achievers and Strivers.
To
Innovators, the beauty and class of Rolex is a valuable extension of
their self. It reflects (see Hawkins, 2007, p 447), “a cultivated taste
for the finer things in life.” To Achievers, the imminence of the Rolex
brand appeals to their needs for (see Hawkins, p 448) “established,
prestige products and services that demonstrate success to their peers.”
Finally, Strivers can emulate the wealthy with a Rolex but they may end
up with a Tudor model, the fighter-brand – cheap enough to compete with
Citizens.
Illustration One (left page): Rolex, “Classic is Forever” Ad
Illustration One (right page): Rolex “Class is Forever” Ad
Movado and African Americans
Hawkins,
et al (2007, p 167) say that “not all messages targeted at African
Americans need to differ significantly from those targeted at other
groups.” They qualify this rule with the caveat that incorporating black
actors, models or spokespersons in the ad is important. A key segment
in this audience is what Hawkins, et al call (p 164) “market leaders.”
This group sees brands as communicating their unique self-image.
The
Movado ad is also two pages, presenting prestige through this eminent
use of space and disregard for cost. The two pages permit a flattering
photograph of the attractive black actress Kerry Washington and the
Movado watch as well. The body copy tells us about the acclaimed
actress, and that the watch is available at fine jewelry stores. The
impression is this watch is not a mass production pop-out that anyone
can own. Noteworthy in the photo of the watch is the diamond studding,
the gold accessorizing and the header “The Art of Design.”
The ad
does not offer extensive body copy. Jérôme Lambert the CEO of
Jaeger-LeCoultre sums up the advantage for this minimalism towards
high-end audiences (see Lechevalier, 2009, p 1):
“The
products are the real brand ambassadors; that’s our basic message. They
have so much to say, and communication is a tool that loses so much of
its efficiency when you overlay too many messages.”
The
audience here, I think, is the VALS: Innovator segment. Image is
important to them (see Hawkins, p 446-7). Brands act as an extension of
self, and an expression of cultivated taste, and independence.
Many
Innovators are emerging leaders. Kerry Washington is a good choice for
the ad because she is an emerging film star (see Wikipedia, 2009, p1)
with performances of note in
Last King of Scotland and
Ray Charles.
Zinkum
and Hong (1991, p 352) conclude that advertising which fits with a
person’s ideal self obtains a more favorable attitude toward the brand
than if the had been more consistent with their actual self-concept. The
Movado ad targets African-American women who are VALS Innovators and
have affinity with Kerry Washington's attractive and successful image.
One thing to help them establish their ideal is the Movado Esperanza
watch, one that becomes an “extension of their personality” (see
Hawkins, 2007, p 447).
Illustration Two (left page): Movado and African Americans

Illustration Two (right page): Movado and African Americans
References
Green,
Barbara (6/16/2004). Rolex loyalist Arnold Palmer plays 50th Masters
Tournament. National Jeweler;Vol. 98 Issue 12. Retrieved on March 30,
2009 from EBSCOHOST.
Hawkins, Del, David Mothersbaugh and Roger Best (2007). Consumer Behavior. McGraw-Hill/Irwin.
Kathy (November 11, 2008).Rolex "Class is Forever" attention-grabbing ad. Retrieved on March 30, 2009 from
http://boomermarketingnews.blogspot.com/2008/11/rolex-class-is-forever-ad-mixed-reviews.html
Keller, K (2008), Strategic Brand Management. Pearson/Prentice-Hall.
Lechevalier, Brice (2009). GMT. Retrieved on April 1, 2009 from
http://www.gmtmag.com/en/11_int_lambert_lecoultre.php
Murphy,
Robert (4/14/2008) FAST TIMES IN WATCHES: FIRMS SEE BOOM FOR
UBER-LUXURY STYLES. Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved on March 30, 2009 from
EBSCOHOST.
Rumbold, Judy (3:54PM GMT 11 Jan 2008) Carmen Dell'Orefice: eternal grace. The Telegraph. Retrieved on April 1, 2009 from
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/fashionpicturegalleries/3364006/Carmen-DellOrefice-eternal-grace.html
Socha, Miles, (7/30/2007). Demand Soars for Six-Figure Watches. Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved on March 30, 2009 from EBSCOHOST.
Univ. of S. Miss (Fall 2007). The VALS Segment Profiles. Retrieved on March 30, 2009 from
http://ocean.otr.usm.edu/~w481504/kfj/mcj231vals.html
Wikipedia (2009). Kerry Washington. Retrieved on April 1, 2009 from
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerry_Washington
Zinkhan,
George M. and Jae W. Hong (1991). Self Concept and Advertising
Effectiveness: A Conceptual Mode! of Congruency,Conspicuousness, and
Response Mode. Advances in Consumer Research. Retrieved on April 1, 2009
from WVU IMC 612 Week 3 readings